Written by Chef Alice Koh
As a Malaysian-born citizen brought up with the wisdom of generations of women who were skilled in cooking (especially my mother), I enjoyed an upbringing of food influenced by the fusion of cultures that make up one of the most peaceful and multicultural regions in the world. The types of food available in Malaysia reflects the diverse traditions of Malay, Chinese, Indian, Nyonya, Thai, Indonesian, and many other ethnic groups with hints of European influences.
I am a Straits-Born Chinese, also known as Peranakan (local-born). I was born in the historical state of Malacca but was raised and educated in the suburb of Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. The Peranakan men are called Baba and the women, Nyonya. The Peranakans are the descendants of early 15th-century Chinese migrants who settled in Phuket, Penang, Malacca, Singapore, and Indonesia. The Chinese traders married the local women and adapted to their local cultures. These intermarriages have produced one of the iconic cuisines in Malaysia and Singapore, popularly known as the Nyonya food.
Let me give you a bit of historical background on influences that give Malaysian Nyonya food the flavors it embodies today.
Nyonya cooking blends Chinese ingredients with local and Indian spices and cooking techniques of the Malay and Indonesian communities. The Nyonya food is an interpretation of Malay/Indonesian food influenced by Chinese, Indian, Thai, and Eurasian. Most Nyonya food is spicy, tangy, aromatic and uses a lot of fresh local herbs. The Nyonyas are also known for our colorful and decadent desserts. Presentation is key; each morsel of food must be a feast for the eyes first, paying attention to details and blending flavors.
I love cooking Nyonya food and incorporating inspiration from my mom and past generations into every dish. My parents loved hosting lunches most Sundays with relatives. I grew up learning how to start a fire from my dad using sun-dried coconut shells to grill chicken satay (skewers). The smoky flavor of the meat was exquisite! There are so many dishes I enjoy cooking but Nyonya Pineapple Shrimp Curry is very special to me because it was often cooked by my mom. She was able to prepare this dish with me even as she struggled with the ending stages of Alzheimer’s. My cooking today is a tribute to her.
I started working as a chef in Phuket, Thailand, and owned my own fine-dining restaurant. I now get to share the joy of my culture and Malaysian food with the Spokane community as a chef-partner at Feast World Kitchen and through my food catering business, SeraiMas.
Want to learn how to cook Malaysian dishes or incorporate Malaysian twists into your own cooking? Join me this October for a three-part series on classic Malaysian dishes at Shadle Park Library!
October 13 at 2:30pm | Nasi Lemak
This versatile Malaysian dish is served with plain spicy chili gravy (sambal), cucumbers, roasted peanuts, a hardboiled egg, and crispy anchovies. Makes a great breakfast, lunch, or dinner!
October 20 at 2:30pm | Three Curries
Learn how to make three different types of curry, each influenced by a different region. Chicken Curry (with Indian Influence), Pineapple Shrimp Curry (Straits Born Chinese style), and Eggplants in Tamarind Gravy (Assam Pedas, with Indonesian influence).
October 27 at 2:30pm | Bihun Siam
I’ll show you how to make this beloved Peranakan (Nyonya) or Malay dish of stir-fried rice vermicelli noodles combining delicious sweet and sour and umami flavors!
If you’re interested in learning more about my cooking, you can visit my website at seraimas.com or follow me on Facebook at facebook.com/SeraiMas.
